Wednesday 18th August. Trouble really started on the flight home for the funeral. 30 minutes into the flight I was starting to get pain in my wisdom tooth. By the time we landed 1 hour later it was very painful. It got painful all day Tuesday and the trip back to Stockholm on the Wednesday was no fun. Leif met me at the airport then back to his work shop to get the bike. Leif and Lars had booked me on the 11pm boat from Trelleborg to Rostock, Germany, But the problem is it is 420 miles and I have 6hrs to get there by 10pm. If not there by 10pm the barrier comes down and you cant book in so no boat and then it is a night run across Denmark and with my tooth it was not an option. I would like to thank Leif and Lars for booking the ferry for me and a very special thanks to Leif's partner Ingrid for getting me the flight home at such short notice. I could not have done it with out there help and will always be in your debt. Pulled out of Stockholm at 3.45pm. Bit tricky through the traffic and road works and guess what, its raining! 20 minutes later it is hammering it down. Not the best condition but have to push hard to catch the ferry. The pain now is hell. I am taking 3 pain killers every 2 hrs hoping to kill the pain or me but no such luck. This is turning out to be a day I really should have stayed it bed. Because I did the same run in the dark and now doing it in the rain again I have not really enjoyed this beautiful country so I will be back in the next few years. A stop for petrol and a bit to eat. Got the petrol but could not eat or drink so lets go. Still 250 miles to go and its going to be tight so up the speed. Still raining hard but must catch that boat. Holding a steady 85-90mph when out of town but in these condition I must be mad. Luck has it the traffic is light and now dark. My encounter with Rudolf in Finland keeps coming back to worry me . All I can hope is that when it rains they stay off the roads. Next fuel stop it is in and out very fast. Only time to get tablets down and go. This is now no fun at all as I should pull over and find a dentist but you keep thinking that it will be all right tomorrow so you push on. If it would only stop raining. Feet wet, inside jack, trousers, wet . Gloves dry. Its no wonder at this speed. Can see the lights of Helsingborg so time for one last fill up, more tablets and go. Standing water on the road so must take a bit of care. No chance. Malmo coming up. This is going to be tight to get this boat. Off the motorway, pick signs for ferry 15miles to go and only 12mins . Hope they do not have police out to night. They do not and get to the ferry with 2 minutes to spare. Book in at last -what a run! By the time I was booked in, 3 cars pulled in behind me and they would not let them on. Tempers got hot but still no go so they all left . Board at 10.30pm. Found cabin and time to get out of these wet cloths. Heating is on so hope they dry by tomorrow. Tried to eat but to painful. Hit the bar hard to try to forget the pain. Helped a bit but the whisky really did help. Staggered back to cabin and sleep. What a day. To fast, wet , and painful. The bike did very good again as she has done much more than I could have every ask her to do . Thanks bike. Sleep well. 423miles



Thursday August 19th. Up at 5am . First thing is tooth is worse than yesterday. I need food. Had scrambled egg. Try eating with out chewing.
Off boat at 5.45am. Strait on to motorway and over towards Hamburg. Arrived at Hamburg at 10am due to heavy traffic and road works on the motorway. A bit of rain but it is very windy now . Getting blown all over the place. Stopped raining so pushing on now. Holding a steady 70-75mph. Passed Osnabruck , Munster. Traffic getting heavy but moving fast. Now rain is back and heavy and windy. Round Bochum , Essen and on to Düsseldorf. Now in to the rush hour traffic. Now in the rain , windy, rush hour, and a bad tooth it is time to meet the only idiot on the road. Had over taken a lorry and pulled in. This MPV Ford came along side me and started to come over pushing me close to the hard shoulder. A blast on the horn and they look over. A look of we are coming over, you are on your bike, we are in a tin box, tough luck. At this stage we are closing on a lorry so I braked to get behind the MPV. So did he and came right over pushing me right on to the hard shoulder and kept coming. Down a gear, gun the bike and we are passed the MPV. Well nearly , not enough room to get back on the road to pass the lorry so undertake him. Lost the head and hit his wing mirror with my fist to let him know how angry I was. It fell off. Passed the lorry , the driver gave me the thumbs up as he had seen what happened. I did not run off but kept a steady speed. Did not see the MPV again. I am not proud of what I did and should have maybe seen it coming, but to force me off the road what not a good bit of driving. Traffic is bad as we are coming up to the border at Aachen. Stopped for petrol and a break. Gps is showing that I go towards north France, so I made the decision to make for Arras for the night. Its a long haul and wet. Arrived at Arras at 8.30pm. Found hotel and was glad they had a room. A bit to eat. Boiled egg. Lots of whisky and beer and bed at 11pm. A long day in the rain, and feel so down. The pain is bad and got worse as the day went on. 689miles

Friday August 19th. Still raining and do I feel bad .Not a good nights sleep.
On the road by 9am.The run down to Paris went well with light traffic so enjoyed it even in the rain. On to the Paris ring road with traffic moving at a good speed, keep a look out for the turn off, and head south towards Limoges my night stop with Peter and Barb. Now in to heavy thunder storms on and off all the way down. Nice light traffic so moving at a nice speed. The Pain is terrible so decide to stop. Sitting on the bike in a thunder storm, wet cold and believing my tooth is about to explode decided to pull it. Grab the tooth, forget the pain Vic - no chance! - Pull. It is a bit loose but all I got was a mouth full of muck. An abscess had burst. Instantly 80 percent of the pain goes. Relief after four and a half days of pain. Fill up and off we go. 1 hour later the pain is back. Still raining hard. Finely get to Peter and Barbs at 6.15pm. Oh what joy to get off the bike and out of the wet cloths and to see them both. What a lovely place they have. After dinner we are chatting and I feel a twinge in the jaw so have to go to the garden to settle down. 10 minutes later I cant take it any more. This is the worst it has been. Peter came out to see I was ok. One look and he is off to get the doctor. George one of his guests comes out. He is a chiropractor so presses on my face. That hurt real bad but the more he pressed on the nerve the better it got. Doctor still in, so it is a mad run over there to see her. After a quick look and the tooth has to come out but cant do it as badly infected so tablets for the pain and antibiotics. After only 5mins the pain killers worked and what relief. No pain at all. Off back to Peters for a few days rest. Slept very well for the first time this week.. 348 miles.
 

Saturday August 20th. Up and time to get a dentist. No luck as none open. Chemist for more tablets to get me to Gibraltar. Cleaned the bike, oil change and plugs. Relax in the garden for a few hours. Its is Peter and Barbs wedding anniversary so out to night for dinner and also one of there neighbours has sold their house and the lady who is buying it is coming as it is her way of saying thanks as they put them in touch with the lady. A very good meal by a lake in a lovely restaurant. Only down side was the behaviour of the people on the next table. They where like animals. What a waste of good food and they are English. A party of about 25 French people came in. All well behaved from the granny to the small kids playing on the floor. Some difference. Made me ashamed to be English. A good chat back at the farm then bed at 1am.

Sunday August 21st. Up at 7am. Load bike, egg and bacon for breakfast, Oh what joy. Time to say good by to them all and on the road at 9.45am. Sorry it was such a short stay due to funeral but have to push on. Thanks very much to Peter and Barbara, you have a very nice place and great biking country. If you are down there way, call in to see them as they will make you very welcome. They are in the Wingspan. Or click HERE.


 

 40 miles down the road time for petrol. While filling up had a look around. What a lovely place. Must come back. Pick up the road south and move on now. Getting very hot now up to 39°C. After all the rain this is a shock to the system. But who cares. See the Pyrenees in the distance so the border is not far off. Crossed the border into Spain at 3pm and the temp is now 42°C. Lots of water to drink. After crossing the border you notice a lot of wrecked cars parked on the hard shoulder. Is this their way of telling you to slow down? Pushing south and the wind has got up and is it strong and head on. Stayed like that all day till night time. It is very empty over the north part of Spain, just me the road and cars, but still has a beauty of it own. Filled up and a bit to eat before getting to Madrid. Traffic getting heavy as we hit the ring road round Madrid and the humidity has gone right up. I am sweating heavily even at this speed. Passed Madrid, still going south. This humpty is bad and looks like it is going to rain and was getting dark. Traffic now light as I got petrol. Pitch black but still hot and humid. Found a camp site by a hotel. That's it for the day. Its now 9pm. Have you a place for my tent I ask. Yes he said. Where do you want me to put it I ask. Not here he replies. Is this mind games I think. Go to the hotel he said. It is owned by his brother . He will give you a good deal. You will thank me. Go to hotel .Tell the desk what he said and get keys for room and to put bike under cover for the night. Check room first. Like a 4 star hotel and all for 25 euros. Go to get stuff off bike and the heavens opened. Did it come down. The guy from the camp site comes running round the corner. Told you I would thank me and goes inside. Had a laugh at that. Shower, air con on, then food. Bed at 11pm 648 miles

Monday 22nd August Up at %am ,on the road at 5.45am. Its dark here but no rain so lets move it. By the time I fill up its looking like a good day. Roads are a bit bumpy on the corners and so joints need to be done again but ok. On the run south you go through a beautiful gorge. It is out standing. It is a 50kph, so when you find a bit a of strait road it is tempting to open the bike up. I thought about it but stuck to the limit. Glad I did, because round the bend at the end of the strait, about 3km , there was the police with 6 vehicles all getting booked. I remembered this when the same happened about 70km down the road. Don't speed on the strait road if they have a low speed limit or you will get done. It stayed like that all the time I was in Spain. Getting hot as I go through Seville and turn of this road to head towards Cadiz. Not a good idea. The road was ok but Cadiz was not my type of place. Very disappointed. Very heavy traffic, no one giving a clue where they are going. Glad to leave. Now on the coast road towards Tarifa. This was hell for a bike. Narrow road for a main road, lots of road works then after getting through that lot we hit the wind side on. Boy did that blow, about 50mph. I have driven in wind before but never that strong and going up and down hills was no fun. A couple of times I thought I was going to get blown off. Finally turn off the road for Tarifa. Through the town which is a holiday resort, Over a little causeway till you cant go any further and you are there. The most southerly point of Europe and it is blowing a full gale. I have done it. I have got here. Cant quite believe that only a few days a go I was at North Cape. Took the photo then ask a guy to get some of me and my bike to show we have done it. The time is 2pm. The bit I did not like was you cant get to the light house. At the end of the causeway is a small headland which looks like it used to be a fort or some thing left over from the war time and they have gates so you can't do the last 100 meters.
 

I have already sent a letter to the Spanish government to see if they can do some thing about it. Lots of people do this sort of thing and it would be great to get to the light house. Time to get going. Through the town, out on to the main road to Gibraltar. Still windy but not as strong. Now in the rush hour as I arrive in La Linea to stay with friends for 2 nights. O what joy to have a nice cup of tea. Very hot shower, then out for food. A very good night and bed at 2am. 462 miles.

Tuesday 23rd August Out at 9am for the run to Gibraltar. Over the border, round the rock and there I was at Europa Point. Now some people think that this is the most southerly point of Europe. It is not. Tarifa is by about 3miles. But to keep every one happy I did this one as well. Got the photos then in to town. Off to the dentist but he could not pull them as I still had an infection - Damn! Thank goodness I only had a bit of pain. Off in to town for a look around. Very crowded but it was holiday time. Not as good as I thought it would be. Things just as pricey as the UK apart from drink and fags. Back to the house to clean and load it up for the road tomorrow. A good day but need to get going. 45miles!

 

Wednesday 24th August. Out on the road by 7.30am as of to Malaga as friends are of to the UK. The road is toll and very expensive to go on. Did not want to go on the coast road as very busy and slow. Left Malaga at 10.30. and head north to get on the motorway. Through the middle of Spain is very hot. 40°C+. It is a fast road but watch for the police. Round Granada and the temp on the buildings was 49°C. I was enjoying it. Plenty of water at every fill up. Spent a lot of time standing up on the foot pegs just to keep cool a bit. Not much chance in this heat. Starting to get it to evening so time for something to eat and petrol. After a fill up for bike and me it was time to stand back and watch a bit of fun. A car parked up was having the hell beaten out it by the driver - he had left his keys inside and was locked out. It is a very nice Mercy, bit I did not think the windows where that tough. They could not break the windows even with a club hammer. Now on to the roof and lets see about the sun roof. Using the hammer 2 handed he still could not get in. Right now on to the windscreen. After about 20 blows, plenty of bad marks on all the windows but still not in, What a mess. Through the crowd of about 25 people a little boy of about 11-12 came through with a bit of wire in his hand. Every one looks and the owner in a rather sarcastic way the kid set about the door, 10 -15 seconds he was in . A round of applause from everyone apart from the owner who just drove of with a look of thunder on his face. Had German plates on his car. Well done lad, but I decided I would not like to live to close to him! Now nearly dark, and I want to get to Barcelona to night.  Arrived at 10.15pm. Booked into the e next hotel, shower, food and beer then bed, what a day. Drunk 10lts of water all day but only about a cup full passed out! 738 miles.

Thursday 25th August . Up- breakfast, and out on the road at 7am. Road quiet as we head north towards Andorra. At 8.30am I arrive at my name sake. A small town called VIC. Had to be done so get the photos with the bike and BAR flag. Fame at last.

After a climb over the pass which is beautiful and down the other side you pick the road up for Andorra. Through a deep gorge you get to the border. The traffic is murder. Even on a bike you can't get through. Parked the bike and time to look around. Everything is closed for lunch. A 2 hour lunch! Still, camera shops are open. Out with credit card, put card back as the prices are only a little bit cheaper than the UK or Switzerland. Example I need a flash gun for a camera .Cost 580 euros. Same price in Switzerland, cheaper in the UK. A whisky I like very much is cheaper in Tesco by 10 euros. Motor bike gear was a lot cheaper than I have seen anywhere. Time to go. Everything is crammed in to a very small place. Car drivers don't give a chance for any one on the road. Just pull out in front of you - idiots. Glad to leave. Climb out of the town to the top and down to the border. People did not think to much of me over taking on the out side for about 6 miles! Crossed the border at 4pm. I decided to get back to Switzerland and the SAP-BAR Ranch that night. Through the tunnel at the bottom instead of going over the col. ( pass ). Down through a beautiful gorge and 20miles down the road got stung on my arm. Strait up the jacket sleeve . Little sod. It was a bee. Hurts like hell. Just like my tooth.

Pushing on towards Perpignan and the coast road north. At last back on the motorway and can push on now. North towards Montpellier as the lights come on and it gets a little cooler at last. Going away from the coast now I push on. Next fill up, time for the sweatshirt, neck scarf, thick gloves. Motorway now quiet as it gets cold on the run north to Valence. Leave this motorway and on to the one for Grenoble. It is getting cold now as we start climbing higher all the time. Round Grenoble and on towards Albertville and it is freezing. Well not far off it! Also being tired did not help. Through Albertville and start climbing higher. On the run up the pass the road is a little damp and with not much tread on the rear wheel it was no fun. Even a lorry passed me as my speed was so slow. At last over the top and on to Chamonix. At least they had street lights on. Which I could get some coffee as so cold and tired. Over the border and back into Switzerland. Over my favourite pass the Forclaz but slow this time on the decent. At last the lights of Martigny and I feel happy but tired. On the decent I nearly fall asleep and crash! Pulled over to clear the head. 10 minutes later I am in the centre of Martigny at last. Through the town, down the valley to Saxon. Turn off the main road and start the climb to the SAP-BAR Ranch. As you climb the cold comes back with a vengeance. At last you round the last bend, a small run and there's the Ranch. I have done it.

 The time is 5.02am and it Friday. Park the bike, a good stretch, sleeping bag out and head for the house and the back terrace, band settle down with a big grin on my face. Did not want to wake Jed or Cristelle as they get up for work at 6am anyway. Watch the dawn breaking as I fall a sleep with sleeping bag over me and empty bottle in my hand. Next thing I remember is Jed calling me and taking a photo with bottle still in my hand.
 

 Have a big smile for them and on top of a cup of tea and breakfast and filling them both in with a few details ask to get me fixed up with a dentist. I see them off to work and me, well, off to bed. I need it - What a day 704 miles!

EPILOGUE

I have done a journey over the last few weeks that has been an incredible experience and it may just appeal to some of you may you who are also considering doing something similar.

I got the idea a few years ago when I read an article about a new BMW bike doing a similar run. It was from this article that I decided I was going to do the North-South run of Europe. The organisation was particularly long in setting the journey up although my original route planning - was I thought - quite easy - But after talking to Leif & Lars (who I met on the SAP Tour), the northern European planning was changed quite dramatically and I would like to send my deep appreciation to these to Swedish Guys and their women folk for all of their help. I am indeed in debt to you for all of your help and generosity.
 

After that it was a question of which bike. The naked GL1200 interstate fitted my purpose spot on. Not a lot to go wrong with electronics as they do not have as many relays, switchers,  radio etc. than other GL's. Also removing the rear wheel is easy. Don't get me wrong, a 1500 or 1800 will do the job with ease but I had limited time so everything needed to be simple. Did I miss the radio/cassette? No. It made me more aware of what I was doing, the scenery, road condition, and if I did have one and it packed up that would have properly played on my mind till it got fixed. Getting all the spares together was easy. As I was taking the 1200, she is a plane Jane, I needed soft luggage. The stuff I got looked ok but turned out not to be. I did not ask around to much so my own fault. They leaked so bad that my things where wet when it rained. Finding out what you need by law in each country was a bit time consuming but got there in the end. I used the internet to get all of this stuff.

By this time the bike is looking loaded. I found out what petrol company was in each country and sent an email to everyone giving my route and asking what station they had , what time they open and closed, did they take cash, credit cards, or did I need there own card, if so can I get one and how long to get one. As it turned out I did not need one, but they all gave me the information I needed.

Also Honda shops in case I need spares help. I all ready new what mileage I would do in a day so camp sites, hotels, youth hostels etc. Did I need to belong to a camping club to get on the sites. Some yes some no. Also get a international driving licence as some sites will take your passport for the night. If you are on the road early like I was you might find your self waiting till they open before you get it back. Maybe 10am. Or worse they have lost it. Give them the international licence and you are covered.

 Make sure you have all the right documents and all the right insurance. Your E111 will only get emergency treatment but I still had to pay for my dental treatment. It will not cover the cost of you to fly home. I know some people who do not take any insurance at all and leave it in the hands of lady luck. Bad mistake. I read plenty of articles in bike mags to find out a lot of info that saved me a lot of money, time and effort.

You can get maps every where but I took mine with me just to be sure. Also get a Gps. They are brilliant. It got me out of trouble a lot of times. No fun trying to get map out of tank bag in heavy rain. It is so easy to press a few buttons and away you go. It is not essential but really helps. Now your ready to go. I think!!

Don't be put of by all this because I was away for so long and on my own it was essential for me. Every day I did all my bike checks, tyre, water, oil and make sure everything is securely fastened to the bike. This was done regardless of what the weather was doing before starting off. Money was easy to sort out and got all mine from the post office and the rates are good.

I found out that always get on the road early so you can get the mileage done and find some where to stay in day light and gives you time to enjoy the place you see. and sort out emergency if they happened. I like to be on the road no later than 7.30. or better still 6.30. Plan what you will do the next day and plan ahead. Sweden, Finland and Norway are stunningly beautifully, but watch for the reindeer who wander out on to the road with no thought for your trip or any thing else. Some  roads are not to good in Norway but overall good for pushing on if need be. Watch your speed in towns and built up areas as police are hot at times in some countries. Spain and Norway come to mind. All the time relax and enjoy the country. Try there food it is fab, let your taste buds try something new for a change. If you need help to do a trip abroad for the first time then ask around . There are a lot of seasoned travellers in the club who will help you out. Set your self a goal even if it is only to go abroad for the first trip to Paris for a weekend. I could not give a true estimate of how much it cost but I budgeted around £4500. Might seem a lot but I was away for nearly 8 weeks, done a SAP Tour- X-tream, Finnish Treffen and a BAR Wing Ding. Plus a little jaunt to both ends of Europe. I need a new rear tyre and a battery.

A few people I would like to thank are Jed and Cristelle for absolutely everything and for making it such a great time in Switzerland and keeping in touch the hole time of my journey. To Leif & Lars, Ingrid & Moa for all their help in Sweden and to help me get flights home at such short notice. Peter and Barbs in France for all their help in sorting with me and my tooth! Also to their friend George for putting the nerve to sleep for a couple of hours.

The bike performed faultlessly the whole time and I am so sorry for dropping her in the garage. She returned about 45-46 miles per gallon - I'm really so very happy on that point when you consider what I put her through. Thank you very much bike.



Well that just about covers every thing for now, so have fun out there and enjoy your selves. Just one more person to thank and that is the Swiss lady dentist who pulled 2 teeth out at 4.30pm on the day I got back to Jed's and Cristelle -
Oh what relief. Now where to !!!!!!!!!!